Malay Mail

Urban Getaway: mano-e mano-rail in the first of a three-parter, joachim ang rides the gravy train through ‘rustic’ kl

One can only claim to truly know a place once the many nuances of it’s character has been explored first-hand.

To holistically appeal to the senses – and allow for the emotional insights that follow – gives life and flavour to what would otherwise be a cursory and fleeting experience.

One may have stayed in a place for a long time, only to not know it at all (apart from the commute to work or play).

More time may be spent behind the wheel in anticipation of the destination rather than soaking in the magic of a journey.

For this reason, the next time you decide to venture to KL, do yourself a favour – lose the wheels, and imagine for a bit that KL is not a place that you know.

Approach this magnificent city with the same wonder and enthusiasm as you would a foreign land, and don’t be surprised if the experience gives you a new perspective of a place you thought you knew so well.

What better way to approach a new city than to check out its public transport.

This usually means the subways and trains or as is the case with KL: the monorail.

The Kuala Lumpur monorail system was launched on Merdeka Day 2003, and connects 11 stations along an 8.

6km stretch.

Built at a cost over RM1 billion, the monorail system is a convenient and attractive way to get to your destination, while enjoying an uninterrupted panoramic view of the city in the comfort of an air conditioned cab.

I approached my journey as a tourist, with camera in hand and the Escape guidebook, Knowing Your Monorail Stations, in the pocket.

From the beginning of my journey at the bustling KL Sentral Station to the end of the line at Titiwangsa, I felt amazed; not only had I become better acquainted with the city, but I had also ‘discovered’ Kuala Lumpur for the very first time.

The monorail trek takes the passenger through the entire gamut of the ‘KL experience,’ ranging from flea markets and temples to shopping complexes, clubs and lakes.

The journey itself reads like a book, with an introduction to old town KL in the first leg of the journey; the frenzy of modern shopping at the halfway point; and a satisfying ending in the tranquil enclave of Lake Titiwangsa.

The first four stops – KL Sentral, Tun Sambanthan, Maharajalela and Hang Tuah – took me through a slice of KL that was at times busy, rustic in a certain sense and somewhat old school if you will.

Stop 1: kl sentral – do the hustle!

The first place to check out is the shaded walkway between the KL Sentral Station and the monorail station.

The walk is flanked by stalls selling a variety of trinkets, accessories and food items, and is an appropriate introduction to the busy Brickfields area that awaits at the other end of the walk.

Behind the monorail station and into the Tun Sambanthan area, you will find row upon row of shoplots, including many massage centres with blind workers (offering services at very affordable prices) and a variety of Indian bridal parlours, textile shops and jewellers.

There are many Indian restaurants around the area selling good vegetarian and non-vegetarian fare, as well as yummy desserts like gulab jamon and bharfi.

Expect to find the area choc-a-bloc full of people from all walks of life and destinations.

stop 2: tun sambanthan – why am see eh, eh?

The Tun Sambanthan stop is actually so close to KL Sentral that it would be better for you to just walk the distance and explore the whole Tun Sambanthan area from the KL Sentral stop.

Here, you will find the local chapter of the YMCA on one end, and the Sentral Exhibition Mall across the road from it.

The latter has a collection of shops selling furniture, cars and the likes.

The former ... well, it needs no introduction, and is a good place to crash for the night, with rooms starting off as cheaply as RM70.

Cheap and clean accommodation is the order of the day, and everyone is welcome at the Y – but book your stay early, especially for the weekends, as it is notoriously fully occupied then.

A walk deeper into the Tun Sambanthan area reveals hidden gems like the Sri Kandaswamy temple at Jalan Tebing.

The Maha Vihara Buddhist Temple and Sakthu Vinyagar temples at Jalan Berhala are a good bet, but is quite a walk away, so you might want to take a cab there instead.

All in all, this whole area provides ample photographic material and is filled with real world charm.

stop 3: maharajalela – eat it, just eat it ...

The first thing you will notice at this stop is how considerably quieter it is than the two previous ones.

Follow the signs at the station to head towards Stadium Merdeka, and you will find this historic facility less than a three-minute walk away.

What is there to do at the stadium, you ask? Well, you can get yourself involved in some serious Makan-lympics with the famous fish head curry at Restoran Ahmad on the first floor of Stadium Merdeka.

By the time I had reached there at 2.30pm, all but a few dishes were left.

Many an empty table was filled with the carcass of fish, no doubt the work of a ravenous lunch hour crowd that had just descended on the place.

Quite a walk away is Chinatown (I’d rather take a cab for this one).

stop 4: hang tuah – from a distance ...

This is a quiet and scenic stop that peeks right at the edge of KL city central.

Here, you will find Pudu Jail, YWCA, Stadium Negara and access to fashion apparel wholesalers at Jalan Kenanga.

The latter activity I left to the ladies, as I gleefully peered at the tip of Berjaya Times Square and the promise of a slice of über-modern urban Malaysia.

What a sight.