Malay Mail

Urban Getaway: kl monorail: part 3 - mono-reality
joachim ang

The first two legs of our journey along the KL monorail line can’t be more different from each other in nature and spirit.

The first phase - from KL Sentral to Hang Tuah - is a trip through the old-world charm of Brickfields, Chinatown and the outskirts of city central.

The second phase - from Imbi to Bukit Nanas - is a dizzying trek through shopping, dining and partying centres, and offers all the trappings of the modern city experience.

What we discover on our monorail journey is that, in addition to being a melting pot of cultures, races, religions and traditions, Kuala Lumpur is also a surprising mix of opposites.

In this city, young office towers sit comfortably next to old shop houses; the modern rub shoulders with the traditional; and unfettered nature co-exists with harsh concrete.

Our trek reveals an interesting story of contrasts in textures, colours and experiences, elements which are perfectly demonstrated in the final leg of our monorail journey – from Medan Tuanku to Titiwangsa stations.

Stop 9: medan tuanku – transformers, more than meets the eye

The Medan Tuanku station is located, somewhat appropriately, on the doorstep of the Asian Heritage Row, an area which, arguably, provides the best sample of old-meets-new KL.

This mushrooming spot is fast becoming one of downtown KL’s lifestyle and entertainment hubs, and is just a stone’s-throw away from the Jalan Sultan Ismail and P Ramlee party strips.

Here, 80 year old pre-war colonial houses that were once abandoned have been converted into a clutch of elegant and achingly hip restaurants, cafes and clubs.

And it is a hit with diners, clubbers and tourists alike.

The founder had the vision of converting the colonial structures into “aesthetically-modern pieces that would still maintain the heritage and identity of the original architecture of the early 20th century.”

True to its vision, the Asian Heritage Row project along Jalan Doraisamy now stands stunningly refurbished, a far cry from just stop 10: chow kit: - smells like teen spirit Savanh, Cochine and The Ivy, that provide a more sedate, but no less entertaining, dining and drinking experience.

Across the street at Jalan Yap Ah Shak is Maison, an unassuming nightclub that combines five houses into a single space, whilst retaining its colonial structure and design.

The area’s after-party mamak restaurant is Buharry, where the Nasi Lemak with Ayam Goreng is simply divine.

Stop 10: chow kit: - smells like teen spirit

Say goodbye to the immaculatelysculptured buildings and fine dining restaurants of Heritage Row, as, just one stop away, the Chow Kit street bazaar awaits.

Considered the largest wet market in Kuala Lumpur, the bazaar is a short walk from the monorail station, and is set in the colourful district of Chow Kit.

The dodgy, narrow walkways and stalls here are mostly covered by canvas sheets, and the whole market is a maze filled with shoppers during peak time.

As a wet market, the stalls offer a variety of fruits, meats, fish and vegetables.

Expect to also find stalls selling traditional herbs and spices as well as cakes and other ready-to-eat delicacies.

There are tables and chairs set out at some five years ago when the street was dilapidated and deserted.

Now, it boasts must-go party spots such as Cynna Bar and The Loft which are complemented with establishments such as Bar of the Nasi Campur stalls where you can have your meal smack in the middle of the market.

The food sold here is mainly Malay hawker fare.

Also a flea market, Chow Kit is replete with stalls selling a variety of clothes, trinkets, shoes and the like.

The centre of the market is a crossroads of sorts, with an unshaded centre that leads the shopper onto three other walkways, filled, of course, with more stalls and wares.

Leave your Armani’s behind - this is no place for delicate fabric and leather.

Tread carefully as the ground is often uneven and filled with puddles of meat water and fish juices.

Stop 11: titiwangsa – the final countdownl

The final stop of the monorai journey is at the sedate Titiwangsa station.

Though not a destination in itself (the station is located in the middle of a busy main road), it provides access to Istana Budaya and Taman Tasik Titiwangsa.

The latter is a good 15-minute walk from the station, so be prepared to brave the busy roads and hot sun if you are planning an afternoon trek down to the lake.

It will be worth your while though, as this leafy oasis offers horse riding facilities, pony rides, boat rides, a floating restaurant and sports facilities, including tennis and squash courts.

Otherwise, take a cab from the station and treat yourself to an evening of tranquil meditation in the middle of the city.