Untangling the paradox

IMAGINE a city where the old Asia blends with the dynamism of a new Asia, where an eclectic mix of medieval and modern exist in harmony. Welcome to the not-soquaint-but-still-charmingenough city of Hanoi, a city of Parisian grace and Asian pace as the Lonely Planet succinctly puts it. As I land at the Noi Bai International Airport in Hanoi after a two hour long journey from Ho Chi Minh city, I’m greeted with a thick smog-like air at the airport. It definitely isn’t winter but why does the weather look so gloomy, I remember asking myself.

Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam has a fascinating blend of the East and West with Chinese influence as a result of centuries of dominance. Enchanting French designs still linger from its colonial past and is still largely unspoiled with architecture dating back to its pre-colonial era.

It definitely feels like a whole new different country to me, having come from Saigon where I was working and living then. The 45 minute to an hour cab ride into the city center took me through acres after acres of paddy fields, passing through the red river and eventually arriving at the hotel. Fares from the airport into the city would cost you anything from VND250,000 - 300,000 (about RM60). Some meter taxi owners in Hanoi will attempt to negotiate a flat fee in advance rather than use the meter.

If you have a fair idea of how far you’re going to or how much you’re willing to pay, this is probably a good idea. If the driver refuses, turn around and walk away. It might change his mind. Don’t panic, it’s all part of the expected negotiation process. It is also common for the drivers of some of the less reputable taxi companies to ‘fix’ their meters to run faster hence running up a high bill very fast. I would recommend using the Mai Linh taxis, popular for its reputable service.

Without any idea where to head to after checking into the hotel, I decided to hop onto the backseat of a xe om (motorbike taxi) to check out the Old Quarter after hearing all my friends from Saigon speak fondly of it. Motorbike drivers can be found on virtually every corner in Vietnam. They are usually more than willing to offer anyone a ride, even if it’s just half a block down the road — for a minimal fee of course.

Always remember to negotiate a fare before getting onto one. Bear in mind that a typical 10 minute ride should cost no more than VND15,000 to VND20,000. Many will gladly accept US dollars with some offering to hang around to drive you to your next destination. I usually keep the same guy if I’m comfortable with the way he rides his bike. If you don’t wish to use him again, be clear or else he might insist on waiting for you.

The Old Quarter is located near the Hoan Kiem lake and has the original street layout and architecture of old Hanoi. The city consisted of only 36 streets or more at the start of the 20th century. Each street then had merchants and households specialising in a particular trade such as silk, jewellery and the arts. The street names still reflect these specialisations such as Bat Su (china bowls), Cha Ca (roasted fish) and Hang Dau (shoes and sandals).

A night market near Dong Xuan market in the heart of the Old Quarter opens for business ever Friday, Saturday and Sunday evening giving you endless varieties of clothing, souvenirs and food to choose from. After all that walking through little alleys and the hustle and bustle of traders along the Old Quarter, I decide to take a break from it all and find myself a quiet little cafe to have a glass of iced cold Ca Phe Sua Da (pronounced as ‘kafe-sure-da).

The famous Vietnamese coffee which is made with finely ground Vietnamese-grown dark roast coffee individually brewed with a small metal French drip filter into a cup containing about a quarter to a half as much sweetened condensed milk is then stirred and poured over ice. For those serious coffee lovers, you might want to make a pilgrimage to Trieu Viet Vuong St which is located a couple of kilometres south of Hoan Kiem Lake and just north of the Vincom shopping center. Often referred to as Hanoi’s ‘coffee street’, you’ll find a slew of cafes where Hanoians while away the hours sipping strong cups of Ca Phe.

As I soak up the chaos and the endless honking of the bikes around the Hoan Kiem lake after a long day, the sun starts to set and I’m left adrift in my own world again - wondering what is it with Vietnam’s charm that keeps luring me but yet still makes me feel like an outsider all at once. The city might not appeal to everyone though as I’ve had people tell me that they just couldn’t wait to get out of Hanoi and some who just want to spend all their time whiling away and getting acquainted with the city.